Tuesday, October 9, 2012

Christiania: A Freetown Once and For All?


Entrance to Christiania
Christiania is a large commune and a free community located within Christianshavn, or Christian Town, where people live like hippies. This area was ordered by King Christian IV in the early 1500s to house the shipbuilders. Just like the people of Denmark, Christianshavn is beautiful. In the 17th and 18th centuries, the town was a port that consisted of military barracks, where all of the buildings were warehouses. As the economy crashed, it became a slum. The town attracted many “artsy” types and was recovered. Those old warehouses are now brightly colored, up-market condos. The hippies have since taken over, and Christiania is all about freedom. Christiania is Copenhagen’s second most popular tourist attraction. It is still deeply rooted in its original concept of personal freedom. There are no commercial advertisements; they are illegal. Marijuana is tolerated, but no hard drugs or weapons are allowed.
Christiania's Common Laws
While the information I have gathered is somewhat inconsistent, the inhabitants of Christiania own the land, and therefore do not pay taxes to anyone, don't need building permits, and often build their own homes. They plant their own gardens, and are known for growing and selling weed. Most of the articles and tourist information I have read state that the open places to buy marijuana are no longer standing. There is zero tolerance towards cannabis by the government, but my friend has noted the contrary. Maybe they’re not easily visible on the streets, but if as an outsider she knew about them, then they must not be that hidden. When the police come, the people just scatter.

When researching I saw many idyllic pictures, but I realized that not everything about Christiania is ideal. It looks like such a beautiful, peaceful place to live. I would totally like to live in the carefree, passive world that Christiania promotes. However, after some more digging, I found photos that didn’t show the glorified version of Christiania I was used to. Some of the homes are literally just huts, with no running water or central air. They look like they have been thrown together almost haphazardly.
House in Christiania
There is also a pretty violent subculture. While I doubt that she witnessed this firsthand, my friend told me that if a tourist breaks one of the rules, they will “beat the shit out of him” and remove the person from the community. They are especially sensitive to people having phones and cameras out. Again, they will “literally beat the shit out of you even if you're a tourist and they just see that you have a camera.” If it need be repeated twice, I would suggest not breaking the rules! Weed is illegal (though accepted), so they don’t want pictures taken of the more respectable people that go there to buy it. Harder drugs, on the other hand, are prohibited.

While doing some research, I came across an article from 2004 that states that the Free City of Christiania, “a 32-year-old experiment in communal urban living,” was to be sold and turned into a city like any other. One can assume that this didn’t happen, since my friend was just there this past summer and relayed a lot of this information which points to the contrary. The inhabitants are supposed to pay taxes to the state, but according to a friend of mine, they don’t pay taxes to anyone. Although my friend did spend time with a local, I thought perhaps that there have been some changes that she was not aware of? After consulting some other sources, it seems that “Freetown Christiania” has won its independence after a government ruling. Apparently, in 2011, residents erected fences with signs that stated, “Christiania is closed until further notice.” This was to prevent the Danish government’s attempt to “normalize” the community. After battling for decades, Christiania has won the legal right to run its own affairs in 2011.
Mural in Christiania
Until I began reading user comments on YouTube, travel blogs, etc., I wasn’t really aware of the advantages of undertaking an ethnographic project in our technological age. In Herodotus’ day, there was no technology like we have today. I was able to gather a fair amount of information through word of mouth, but once the Internet was available to us, a quick Google search can bring up all the information you could want. The difference, though, is that reading something online is not the same as experiencing a place yourself, or having someone you know and trust relay information to you.

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